View source for Wave shoaling (nonfiction)

In [[Fluid dynamics (nonfiction)|fluid dynamics]], '''wave shoaling''' is the effect by which surface waves entering shallower water change in wave height. It is caused by the fact that the group velocity, which is also the wave-energy transport velocity, changes with water depth. Under stationary conditions, a decrease in transport speed must be compensated by an increase in [[Energy density (nonfiction)|energy density]] in order to maintain a constant energy flux. Shoaling waves will also exhibit a reduction in wavelength while the frequency remains constant.

In shallow water and parallel depth contours, non-breaking waves will increase in wave height as the wave packet enters shallower water. This is particularly evident for tsunamis as they wax in height when approaching a coastline, with devastating results.


* [[Energy density (nonfiction)]]
* [[Fluid dynamics (nonfiction)]]


* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_shoaling Wave shoaling] @ Wikipedia